Japan Day 9 – Miyajima
Welcome back, fellow travelers! Today, I am thrilled to recount our unforgettable adventures on Miyajima, an enchanting island just a stone’s throw away from Hiroshima. Brace yourself for a captivating tale of scenic wonders, spiritual encounters, and soul-soothing experiences.
Our day commenced with a delightful complimentary breakfast, overlooking the vast expanse of the sea. In the distance, the island emerged like a majestic green behemoth, evoking a sense of anticipation and wonder. Energized and eager to explore, we quickly savored our meal and embarked on a journey to the ferry harbor, our gateway to this hidden paradise.
Thanks to our JR passes, the ferry ticket was already included, allowing us to effortlessly board the vessel with a simple flash of our passes. Unlike most visitors who opt for a day trip, we had the privilege of staying at a local Ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, ensuring a more immersive experience. A mere 10 minutes later, we set foot on the island once again, greeted by the awe-inspiring sight of Miyajima’s iconic landmark—the Grand Torii Gate of Itsukushima Jinja Otorii. Entrusting our luggage to storage lockers, we ventured into the town, winding through its narrow streets, soaking in the ambiance, and capturing the essence of this extraordinary place.
Suddenly, a movement caught my eye—a deer! Miyajima is home to hundreds of wild deer, surprisingly at ease in the presence of humans. Be wary of your snacks, though, as these mischievous creatures may attempt to steal a bite using their adorable yet determined headbutts! After offering a gentle pat, but resisting the urge to feed, we continued strolling along the moss-covered cobblestone streets.
Along our path, we encountered a magnificent stone gate flanked by two imposing stone lions, an impressive prelude to the Torii gate itself. Thanks to the low tide, we were able to approach the gate closely, marveling at its grandeur and capturing countless photographs. This architectural marvel, constructed in 1168 by Taira no Kiyomori, the most influential figure in Japan during the Heian Period, stood as a testament to the island’s rich history.
Miyajima, meaning “Shrine Island,” holds immense significance in the Shinto religion. Its mystical landscape boasts hundreds of shrines nestled within twisting moss-covered paths, weaving through ancient forests. This magical place is counted among Japan’s three scenic locations, and once you experience it firsthand, its allure becomes undeniable.
Not far from the grand Torii gate lies the renowned Itukushima Shrine, founded by Saki Kuramoto around the year 593. During the Daido period in 806, the island was visited by a Buddhist priest named Kobodaishi, who sensed the spiritual energy permeating the land, deeming it a sacred site. He constructed a hall on the island’s mountain, Mt. Misen, where a fire he ignited for training purposes has continued to burn for over 1,200 years. It is here, in this mystical ambiance, that Miyajima’s true magic lies. Its breathtaking beauty, profound history, and spiritual significance intertwine to create an experience that will leave an indelible mark on your soul.
With hearts brimming with reverence, Alex and I proceeded to explore the hallowed grounds of Itukushima Shrine, offering our prayers at the altar before resuming our island exploration. Soon, we found our way to our Ryokan, where we were warmly greeted and given an early check-in. Stepping into our room, we removed our shoes as tradition dictated, guided by a kind, elderly woman who graciously toured us through the simple yet charming space. Adorned with tatami (straw) mats, inviting cushions, and a tea kettle, the room’s pièce de résistance was undoubtedly the view. Perched high on a hill, our top-floor room overlooked the Shrine and the Torii gate we had just marveled at. We sat there, in a moment of tranquil silence, for a good 20 minutes, absorbing the beauty that unfolded before us.
Since dinner at the Ryokan was scheduled for 6:00, we decided to venture down a dirt road that led from our accommodation. Little did we know that a hidden treasure awaited us—Daishoin Temple. While we had heard whispers of its magnificence, nothing prepared us for the extraordinary experience that awaited. As we traversed the path, the verdant foliage grew denser, moss blanketed the stones, and a profound sense of serenity enveloped us. Suddenly, we heard the resonant tolling of a distant bell, accompanied by faint chanting and rhythmic drumming. We followed the melodic trail, and there, in a scene of unparalleled beauty, we beheld the most captivating place we had ever laid eyes upon. Words fail to capture the grandeur and history that infused every corner of this sacred sanctuary.
In this captivating realm, we meandered along hidden paths, immersing ourselves in the vibrant tapestry of shrines and temples that surrounded us. Each step revealed intricate artwork, breathtaking sculptures, and countless amulets. The air was heavy with the fragrance of incense, while moss-clad statues of various individuals, adorned with tiny knit caps—placed by devout followers as protective measures—beckoned us to contemplate their unique stories. One particular path boasted 500 of these distinctive figures, all donning vibrant red knit caps, said to be crafted in the likeness of Buddha’s disciples. Temple after temple, we marveled at the impeccably preserved ancient architecture, cherishing every moment spent in this blissful forest. The sense of tranquility that enveloped us was an experience beyond words—truly, a piece of paradise on Earth. If you ever find yourself in Japan, I implore you to visit Miyajima. Allow this divine place to captivate your heart and soul, for its beauty is simply ineffable.
One of the most awe-inspiring moments awaited us within the temple complex—an encounter that filled us with wonder. Continuing down a path, we arrived at the moss-covered mouth of a cave, where the distant echoes of chants beckoned us inside. Illuminated by a symphony of lanterns, the cave room offered a mystical ambiance, as if transporting us to another realm. Encircling the chamber, a path led to 88 shrines, each a unique marvel in its own right. We stood in reverence, embracing the mesmerizing chants and absorbing the sacred energy that permeated this ethereal space.
Our sojourn through this breathtaking haven consumed three unforgettable hours, etching an everlasting memory that will forever grace our hearts.
As the sun began its descent, signaling the end of an extraordinary day, it was time to prepare for our evening rituals. Donning yukatas, traditional summer kimonos graciously provided by our accommodation, we descended to the dining room on the first floor. A sumptuous feast awaited us, an exquisite fusion of flavors, ranging from comforting soups and vibrant salads to succulent fish, delicate sashimi, tantalizing sushi, and the pièce de résistance—melt-in-your-mouth Wagyu beef. Every dish was a culinary masterpiece, tantalizing our taste buds and leaving us positively satiated.
With our appetites appeased, our next indulgence beckoned—the private onsen. Steeped in tradition, this soothing bath, fed by mineral-rich, volcanically heated water, offered us a chance to unwind and rejuvenate. After the requisite ritual of undressing and cleansing ourselves, we immersed ourselves in the steaming hot water, feeling our cares and weariness melt away. Thirty blissful minutes in this serene oasis provided the perfect culmination to our tranquil day.
Returning to our room, we were astonished to discover a transformation—our once spacious abode had now been converted into a cozy bedroom. The table had been discreetly moved aside, and two thin mattresses lay invitingly in its place. Admittedly, the tatami flooring and slender mattresses posed a slight challenge to our accustomed comfort, resembling the experience of camping in a snug sleeping bag. However, exhaustion engulfed us, and we surrendered to a night of restful slumber.
And so, dear readers, I find myself writing to you now, aboard the Shinkansen en route to our next destination—Kyoto. As the landscape dances by outside our window, I am left to reflect upon the fleeting yet magical moments we savored on Miyajima. Unquestionably, it stands as a haven of unsurpassed beauty, serenity, and enchantment—a place that imprints upon your spirit with an indelible mark.
Until we meet again, my fellow travelers, in the captivating embrace of Kyoto. As we pull into our next accommodation in Kyoto I will be sure to upload photos from our journey over the last two magical days. You could also toss me a follow on Instagram (@stravyn_) for up to the moment stories and posts.
Yours in wanderlust,
~t
