Japan Day 8 – Hiroshima

Greetings, everyone! We’ve reached day 9 of our incredible journey, and these past two days have undoubtedly been the highlight so far. Our arrival in Hiroshima after a swift Shinkansen ride was met with excitement as we ventured into the vibrant city. We made our way to the renowned Righa Royal Hotel Hiroshima, which just a week ago hosted meetings during the prestigious G7 summit. Stepping into the hotel, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of grandeur and history that added to our anticipation for what lay ahead. I am currently writing this in our Ryokan on Miyajima Island, with the Itsukushima Jinja Otorii gate lit up in front of me. This post, however, will focus on yesterday’s adventures in Hiroshima. Following this post, I will write up our day in Miyajima… spoiler alert – Miyajima has been my favorite place I’ve ever visited.

Eager to satisfy our appetites after the exhilarating 4-hour bullet train journey, we set out to explore Hiroshima’s culinary delights. We had heard whispers of a dish unique to this city, Okonomiyaki, and we knew we couldn’t leave without trying it. Our quest led us to Okonomimura, a bustling building near our hotel. Inside, we discovered two floors filled with stalls, each specializing in this delectable treat. Laughter, conversation, and the aroma of sizzling ingredients filled the air. Okonomiyaki, a savory pancake dish, captivated us as we watched skilled chefs create culinary masterpieces right before our eyes. Layers of pancake batter, lettuce, noodles, shrimp, squid, bacon, cheese, and an assortment of toppings formed a tower of flavors. As our plates arrived, we savored every bite, overwhelmed by the savory, sweet, and salty symphony dancing on our taste buds. Although the dish proved delightfully abundant, we couldn’t finish it all, humbly accepting the stall owner’s jest that even her 7-year-old son could manage the feat.

With satisfied appetites, we proceeded to fulfill our main purpose in Hiroshima—the visit to the Peace Memorial Park. Walking across a bridge over the tranquil river, we unknowingly passed a small sign bearing the word “hypocenter.” Little did we realize that just 600 meters above us was the spot where the devastating atomic bomb was unleashed. Hiroshima, rebuilt and thriving today, conceals the scars of its tragic past. Our gaze shifted, and we spotted a familiar sight—the Atomic Bomb Dome. Standing near the hypocenter, it was one of the few structures that withstood the cataclysm. Initially slated for demolition, it was preserved as a poignant symbol of hope and remembrance. As rain began to fall, we found solace on a bench across the river, contemplating the weight of history that surrounded us. Soon, the sound of a bell beckoned us, guiding us to the Hiroshima Children’s Peace Monument. Enclosed within plexiglass cases were hundreds of thousands of paper cranes—a testament to the enduring connection between these delicate creations and the pursuit of peace. The monument, crowned by a girl clutching a metal paper crane, holds a tragic story. Sadako Sasaki, a young girl affected by the atomic bombing, inspired the tradition of folding paper cranes in the hope of recovery. Today, millions of cranes are offered annually at this poignant site.

Moved by our experience, we proceeded to the Eternal Flame—a profound symbol nestled within what can only be described as an infinity pool. This flame will continue to burn until the world is rid of nuclear weapons. As we stood before it, the flame framed by a stone archway, the Atomic Bomb Dome loomed in the background, a powerful reminder of the events that transpired here on August 6, 1945. While the Peace Memorial Museum beckoned, the crowds of tourists prevented us from fully exploring its exhibits. Nonetheless, the glimpses we caught of harrowing photographs and artifacts left an indelible mark on our minds.

Returning to our hotel, we were pleasantly surprised to receive complimentary drink coupons and a 20% discount on a meal. Eager to seize this opportunity, we made our way to the hotel’s Japanese restaurant, unprepared for the awe-inspiring feast that awaited us. Over the course of two unforgettable hours, we were treated to an 11-course extravaganza that exceeded our wildest expectations. With our 20% discount, a bottle of sake, and two glasses of plum wine, the bill amounted to a mere $200—an unbelievable deal considering the quality and variety of dishes we enjoyed.

Let’s delve into the culinary journey that unfolded before us. The first course presented us with boiled scallops and kintoki herb complemented by a cool julienne vinegar, vinegar egg yolk, and raw sea urchin. Despite my initial reservations about sea urchin, we followed the chef’s advice and combined all the elements into a perfectly harmonious bite—a delightful blend of tangy vinegar, salty sea urchin, and savory egg. The impeccable presentation further heightened our enjoyment.

Next, we were introduced to a captivating tableside preparation of Daggetooth pike conger and green soybeans—a dish reminiscent of miso soup. The tender and flavorful pike conger, expertly seasoned, left us craving more.

The journey continued with a tantalizing sashimi platter featuring sea bream, Spanish mackerel, and an extraordinary piece of tuna. This particular slice of tuna, melting in our mouths like A5 wagyu beef, proved to be the epitome of sashimi perfection. Accompanied by authentic wasabi—unlike its modified horseradish counterpart—we savored every morsel, free from any nasal burn. Undoubtedly, this dish secured a spot among our top favorites.

Grilled eel on rice wrapped in dried algae arrived as the fourth course. Delicately cooked, the eel showcased its natural flavors without any trace of fishiness.

Our journey took a slight detour with the fifth course—a vibrant assortment of seaweed in vinegar sauce, fish eggs and tempura kelp, firefly squid with vinegar and miso, duck loin with mustard sauce, and trout with eggplant. Four out of the five dishes were truly exceptional, with the fish eggs and kelp surprising us with their delightful taste and absence of fishiness. Regrettably, we couldn’t bring ourselves to finish the firefly squid, not due to any lack of flavor, but rather our mental hurdle of consuming an entire raw squid in a single bite.

Prepare your taste buds for the pinnacle of our culinary adventure—the Japanese A5 black beef accompanied by eggplant and miso sauce. This particular dish proved to be our absolute favorite. The beef, cooked to perfection with a cool center, showcased its tenderness and unmatched flavor. The miso sauce, an orchestra of savory and meaty notes, elevated the entire experience. If given the chance, I would gladly devour 17 more plates of this divine creation.

Now, let’s embark on the second half of our feast. The seventh course brought forth boiled conger eel with lotus root, Hiroshima green onion oil, and pepper. While this dish didn’t claim the top spot in our hearts, it still presented us with a delightful medley of flavors. The eel itself proved to be exceptional, while the broth, reminiscent of gelatinous chicken noodle soup, left a lasting impression.

Courses eight, nine, and ten were served together, tantalizing our taste buds with each bite. The ginger-infused rice, subtly aromatic without overpowering, provided a perfect accompaniment. As for the red miso soup, a revelation awaited us. Unlike its fishy counterparts back home, this savory delight offered a depth of flavor akin to a rich tomato beef broth. It caught us off guard and instantly won us over. The pickled vegetables of course ten, although unremarkable, served as a refreshing palate cleanser.

Finally, course eleven—dessert—concluded our extraordinary meal. We were presented with a lemon/yuzu flavored gelatin accompanied by pudding and fresh fruit. The Japanese-style pudding, reminiscent of flan, displayed a flawless balance of flavors, culminating in a delightful finale.

Feeling utterly satiated, we ascended to our room on the 31st floor, where exhaustion took hold after a day filled with travel and exploration. Falling into a deep slumber, we drifted off, cherishing the memories and flavors that will forever remain etched in our hearts. Early the next morning, we were to brave the unknown train system in Hiroshima, jump on a ferry and travel to the island it is said the gods live – Miyajima.

Note: Due to our hotel wifi, I’m having a hard time uploading images to the post. In the meantime, if you could toss me a follow on Instagram (@stravyn_), I’ve been posting stories in real time as things happen. Thanks!